Resale's Growing Influence


Dior 2018 Campaign (with re-issued saddle bag); via Dior.

Dior 2018 Campaign (with re-issued saddle bag); via Dior.

 About two years ago we had this great vintage Dior saddle bag in the Denver store—it was beautiful, iconic, in excellent condition…

We couldn’t give it away.

 Fast forward to 2018: Dior reintroduced the saddle bag in response to demand from vintage markets, and end of year reports from Vestaire Collective confirm sales of the bag on their site increased one thousand percent over last year (including vintage).

Let’s discuss.

Bella Hadid with vintage Dior saddle bag circa 2017; via Pinterest.

Bella Hadid with vintage Dior saddle bag circa 2017; via Pinterest.

CONTEXT

According to ThredUp’s 2018 Resale Report the US Resale Market will reach $41 billion in annual sales by 2022, meaning sales will grow 15% per year until then. Which is unheard of.  The industry has responded with more sophisticated, user-friendly stores, sites and apps that appeal to buyers and sellers groomed by Social Media. All of this positions resale to have a significant impact on the larger fashion universe, or to start and impact trends.

THE ROLE  OF STYLE INFLUENCERS

While it’s still typical for models to start a trend (Bella Hadid circa 2017 for the vintage Dior saddle bag), the real work of trend setting is left to professional Style Influencers (modern day It Girls paid for product placement). Last year Dior sent an army of them the re-issued saddle bag with orders to fan the flames of a valuable trend.

IT WORKS IT WORKS!

The dye was cast, the trend set, and sales of the Dior saddle rocketed (see opening segment). Importantly, this drove business to traditional and resale retail outlets; more importantly it marks an era where resale exerts more influence on trends and fashion than ever before.

Style Influencers with Dior re-issued saddle bag; image via myfatpocket.

Style Influencers with Dior re-issued saddle bag; image via myfatpocket.

TO DO:

  1. Think about all of this, it’s super ponderable.

  2. Then shop resale : )

XOXO,

LUCIANN


 




 

 

 

 

 







 

Best Coats 2018

 There are things about Fall that do not involve Pumpkin Spice: foggy mornings for example, or spooky nights, crunching leaves underfoot, coats. In this arena F/W 2018 does not disappoint. Here’s a checklist of the best winter coat trends to shop and be seen in:

1. Softly Belted

Minimal, oversized, ankle-grazing, and cinched coats in sumptuous cashmere and wool are the strongest trend this season (best of the best are from The Row, Victoria, Beckham, Jacquemus, and Gabriele Hearst).

The Row Fall 2018 RTW; image via Vogue.

The Row Fall 2018 RTW; image via Vogue.

2. Heritage

Heritage weaves and checked tweeds receive a modern re-work in highly sculpted or completely unstructured silhouettes as seen at Lemiare, Erdem, Cavin Klein and Balenciaga.

Balenciaga Fall 2018 RTW; image via Vogue.

Balenciaga Fall 2018 RTW; image via Vogue.

3. Puffer

Go beyond utility with leather, long, cropped, velvet and tailored puffers (you can take notes from the Chanel, Herno, R13,  Moncler and Sacai runways).

Sacai F/W 2018 RTW; image via Vogue.

Sacai F/W 2018 RTW; image via Vogue.

4. Vintage Leather

Leather coats and jackets echo the 70’s this season: slick trenches and haute bohemian styles in saturated earth tones are a cool alternative to the de rigueur moto.

Chloe  leather trench from F/W 2018 RTW Collection; image via Vogue.

Chloe leather trench from F/W 2018 RTW Collection; image via Vogue.

5. Retro Sport

A longtime street favorite, retro sport styles ruled the runway at Tods, Gucci, and Giamba. The look is very 1970’s apres-ski. The bonus is you can achieve it second hand as easily as on Net-a-Porter.

Tod’s F/W RTW 2018; image via Vogue.

Tod’s F/W RTW 2018; image via Vogue.

TO DO:

  1. Edit your closet as needed (could include consigning and donating old coats/outerwear).

  2. Get yourself one great coat-new or new to you.

  3. Wear it for days.

    XOXO,

    LUCIANN

Andre Leon Talley and Unconditional Love

 

Andre Leon Talley in a signature caftan; image via The Daily Beast.

Andre Leon Talley in a signature caftan; image via The Daily Beast.

“I don’t tear down. I prefer to build up.”

            -Andre Leon Talley

Andre Leon Talley was raised in the Jim Crow South by his grandmother, a maid at Duke University. It was just the two of them, and Talley believes his love of fashion began with love for her and how she dressed for church. “Handbags, gloves chosen carefully. My grandmother had the most beautiful wardrobe of gloves. Calfskin gloves in the winter, you wore beautiful net gloves in summer, you wore beautiful cotton gloves, so all of that was very much ritualistic, and I loved it.”

Working with Diana Vreeland of Vogue; image via Pinterest.

Working with Diana Vreeland of Vogue; image via Pinterest.

When Talley was  9 or 10 years old, he found an issue of Vogue at the public library. “"[Vogue] was my gateway to the world outside of Durham," he says. "It was the world of literature, what was happening in the world of art, what was happening in the world of entertainment." He papered his bedroom walls with images torn from the magazine. Outside the home, Talley was bullied for his race, his size, his clothes, and his mannerisms. But he remembers a lot of good things--the unconditional love of his grandma, the lifelong friendships forged in a segregated high school.

With Grace Jones via Whowhatwear.

With Grace Jones via Whowhatwear.

With Anna Wintour; image via Pinterest.

With Anna Wintour; image via Pinterest.

Talley went on to study French Literature at Brown University, and moved to New York City in 1974. He worked first for Andy Warhol at the Factory, then with Diana Vreeland and Anna Wintour at Vogue, ultimately serving as its creative director and editor-at-large. When asked about working for the magazine he worshipped as a child, Talley says, "I just rose to the occasion. I stood up straight and tall — like a tall, tall sunflower — and I just radiated the light and the beauty of my mind in relationship to the world of fashion." 

You can learn more about Andre Leon Talley's life and influence in the new Kate Novack documentary film The Gospel According to Andre.

TO DO: 

1. Go see this film!

2. Stand up straight and tall-like a tall, tall sunflower--and radiate...

3. Wear a caftan.

XOXO,

Luciann

PS: Thank you to NPR for quotes from interviews done with Mr. Talley.